Philip's parents, Mary and Derek, recently came to stay with us in Mumbai, and we arranged a long weekend away as an opportunity for us all to see other parts of India. The choice of destination was narrowed down somewhat as May is the month in which India quite literally boils up. The hottest central areas are pushing 50 degrees; and whilst Mumbai is comparatively mild in the mid to late 30s, the humidity is stifling. We decided to travel north and spend the first part of our long weekend in Shimla, a town in the foothills of the Himalayas north of Delhi.
Shimla (or Simla) was a small settlement until the mid 19th century when the British recognised its potential as an escape from the Summer heat of Delhi. From then until 1947, the entire British government moved north for the Summer months and India was ruled from the mountain town of Shimla. The town grew quickly and soon looked like a piece of England transplanted into India; with a Scottish Baronial-style castle for the Viceroy, a snow white church, golf course, walking paths and a climate just like a perfect British Summer day. Some of the key meetings leading to India's independence and partition, involving Mountbatten, Nehru, Jinnah and Gandhi, were held in the Viceroy's palace. At the beginning of the 20th century, a narrow gauge railway was built to ease the journey, which still today carries passengers up to almost 3000m above sea-level where Shimla is situated.
Shimla today is very different from the place described pre-Independence - it is now a bustling built-up town of 200,000 people and many more tourists, but we were pleased to see that it had retained a lot of charm, partly owing to the pedestrianised areas of the town, which allow you to escape the traffic, a rare treat in India.
We travelled up to Shimla by car from Chandigarh, along a winding road with spectacular views as you climb up through the mountains. I enjoyed this, although Mary's stomach was less keen, and it soon become clear that we should have packed more plastic bags for our journey! We travelled back down the mountain on the toy train; a great feat of engineering and another opportunity to enjoy the view over the hills below.
We stayed in a homestay run by a charming couple who are the third generation in their family to own and live in the property. The house was set a little outside the town centre, surrounded by tall pine trees and utterly peaceful. The family cooked breakfast and dinner for us during our two night stay and welcomed us warmly into their home. It was fascinating to hear more about their experience growing up and living in Shimla over the last 70 years. One of the best bits for me was the bell in our room, which we could ring for the houseboys to bring us tea in the morning. Curling up a blanket with a warm drink watching morning break over the mist of the trees and mountains was superb.
In Shimla, we visited the Viceroy's Palace, walked along The Mall, explored the church, treated ourselves to tea at the Oberoi hotel and climbed up to the top of the town to visit the Jakhu Temple, dedicated to the monkey god, Hanuman. This is not quite true. Phil and Mary walked up to the temple; I walked halfway up and was too scared by the monkeys and came back down again, knowing that there would be many more at the top.
The monkeys are the bad bit of Shimla. They are not cute, fluffy or friendly. They are intelligent, mean and seemingly exist purely to create havoc (and scare me). The bottom of the hill leading to the Jakhu Temple is lined with stalls renting out long wooden sticks for 10 rupees, purely for monkey defence purposes. In fact, we found out that if you don't hire a stick then the monkeys see you as a weak target and go for you. Their particular favourite party trick that we were warned about is stealing spectacles, then refusing to return then until you give them food. In light of all this fun and games, Derek and I left Phil and Mary to run the monkey gauntlet alone and sat in the sun, in a monkey-free environment, at the bottom of the hill instead.
Despite its increasing popularity and crowds, the Shimla that we saw remains idyllic and with beautifully clean air relative to what we are used to in Mumbai. Its location on a steep hillside is spectacular, if hard for running, as Phil found when he went out to explore each morning.
Whilst Shimla is very much part of India, it retain a old-world charm and feels like a true escape from the heat and, sometimes, craziness of India. I hope we will go back in the future.
Shimla (or Simla) was a small settlement until the mid 19th century when the British recognised its potential as an escape from the Summer heat of Delhi. From then until 1947, the entire British government moved north for the Summer months and India was ruled from the mountain town of Shimla. The town grew quickly and soon looked like a piece of England transplanted into India; with a Scottish Baronial-style castle for the Viceroy, a snow white church, golf course, walking paths and a climate just like a perfect British Summer day. Some of the key meetings leading to India's independence and partition, involving Mountbatten, Nehru, Jinnah and Gandhi, were held in the Viceroy's palace. At the beginning of the 20th century, a narrow gauge railway was built to ease the journey, which still today carries passengers up to almost 3000m above sea-level where Shimla is situated.
The Viceroy's Palace - Now an educational research institute. We went on the guided tour which was interesting, and allowed us to see some of the former glory of the palace interiors (lots of dark wood).
The narrow gauge railway station in Shimla
Derek and Mary enjoying the train journey (much more than the car journey)
NEVER stick your head out of the window of a moving train. Unless you're in India and health & safety has gone out of the window (pun intended)
Shimla today is very different from the place described pre-Independence - it is now a bustling built-up town of 200,000 people and many more tourists, but we were pleased to see that it had retained a lot of charm, partly owing to the pedestrianised areas of the town, which allow you to escape the traffic, a rare treat in India.
The Mall - Shimla High Street
More High Street - you can see the Alpine architecture to the right
How to carry a fridge up a hill
Property shopping - Cow-style
We travelled up to Shimla by car from Chandigarh, along a winding road with spectacular views as you climb up through the mountains. I enjoyed this, although Mary's stomach was less keen, and it soon become clear that we should have packed more plastic bags for our journey! We travelled back down the mountain on the toy train; a great feat of engineering and another opportunity to enjoy the view over the hills below.
We stayed in a homestay run by a charming couple who are the third generation in their family to own and live in the property. The house was set a little outside the town centre, surrounded by tall pine trees and utterly peaceful. The family cooked breakfast and dinner for us during our two night stay and welcomed us warmly into their home. It was fascinating to hear more about their experience growing up and living in Shimla over the last 70 years. One of the best bits for me was the bell in our room, which we could ring for the houseboys to bring us tea in the morning. Curling up a blanket with a warm drink watching morning break over the mist of the trees and mountains was superb.
View from our bedroom balcony (best to focus on the mountains and not look down to the buildings below...)
Some of the wonderful flora in Sanjiv and Billy's garden (our hosts)
Our lovely mountain-style bedroom - authentic Alpine / Indian furnishing
In Shimla, we visited the Viceroy's Palace, walked along The Mall, explored the church, treated ourselves to tea at the Oberoi hotel and climbed up to the top of the town to visit the Jakhu Temple, dedicated to the monkey god, Hanuman. This is not quite true. Phil and Mary walked up to the temple; I walked halfway up and was too scared by the monkeys and came back down again, knowing that there would be many more at the top.
Shimla Church and the town library
I reiterate that my failure to reach the temple was monkey-related, not because I am unfit, as implied above
Monkey menace
Giant Hanuman statue outside the Jakhu temple
View over the hills from the temple
Enjoying some much deserved refreshment at the Oberoi
The monkeys are the bad bit of Shimla. They are not cute, fluffy or friendly. They are intelligent, mean and seemingly exist purely to create havoc (and scare me). The bottom of the hill leading to the Jakhu Temple is lined with stalls renting out long wooden sticks for 10 rupees, purely for monkey defence purposes. In fact, we found out that if you don't hire a stick then the monkeys see you as a weak target and go for you. Their particular favourite party trick that we were warned about is stealing spectacles, then refusing to return then until you give them food. In light of all this fun and games, Derek and I left Phil and Mary to run the monkey gauntlet alone and sat in the sun, in a monkey-free environment, at the bottom of the hill instead.
On the train. They are EVERYWHERE
Despite its increasing popularity and crowds, the Shimla that we saw remains idyllic and with beautifully clean air relative to what we are used to in Mumbai. Its location on a steep hillside is spectacular, if hard for running, as Phil found when he went out to explore each morning.
Whilst Shimla is very much part of India, it retain a old-world charm and feels like a true escape from the heat and, sometimes, craziness of India. I hope we will go back in the future.
Crazy Blog.....
ReplyDeleteIt is very nice to visit the hill stations in the days of vacation. I can feel that the you people would have really a great experience in this place while visiting. Thanks a lot for the most beautiful lines which you have given in the midst of us. Shimla Kullu Manali is one of the best place which the couples can use to spend out the honeymoon in the most remarkable way.
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