Sunday, July 5, 2015

Hello Monsoon

The monsoon arrived in Mumbai in mid-June as expected.  The arrival of the monsoon is a wonderful thing - the relief of cool, heavy rain falling after eight months of nothing is immense and the stifling humidity of May and June finally reduces.

As I write this, we have hardly had any rain for the last week, which is rather unusual for this time of year, but I suspect that the weather is simply having a rest after a spectacular start to the season.  Two weeks ago, we had a few days of the most extreme rain I've ever seen....thunderous, relentless and immensely powerful.  It's hard to convey exactly what the rain is like as I've never seen anything that compares in the UK.  Imagine days which don't really get light as the clouds are so dark and thick, water falling as if from a power shower, and drains that cannot cope to the extent where deep water (sometimes several feet deep) gathers extremely quickly.  This intense period of rain included 300mm within a single 24 hour period - that's more than 50% of London's average annual rainfall.

The heaviest spell of rain was on a Friday....Phil had been away the day before on a trip to a fort a 7 hour train ride away and arrived back in Mumbai by train early that morning.  Realising that the train wasn't going to reach its destination, Phil got out on the outskirts of the city and travelled home by taxi.  I'm very relieved that he did...out of 14 people in my team, 3 of us made it into office as the train network shut down and roads quickly became impassible owing to flooding.  I sent those who made it in home as it was clear that conditions were worsening throughout the day, and I worked from home.

Saturday looked a little better, it wasn't raining in the morning and it was our two year anniversary of arriving in India, so we headed out to go swimming at a nearby hotel in the morning followed by a smart lunch.  Unfortunately, the pool was shut owing to the heavy rains (early monsoon rain is quite dirty so can contaminate swimming pools) so I had a relaxing head massage instead until it was time for lunch.  We spent 90 minutes over our lunch, in which time it started raining....hard.  By the time we left, the road had filled up with more than six inches of water - we had to roll up our trousers and wade through to get to the car!  Thankfully, we made it home without incident, but I found this unnerving to say to least.  I'm impressed that Sagar still makes it into work on his motorbike in these conditions, but I think he sees it as a bit of a challenge rather than a risk!

Here is a video from Wet Friday taken from our apartment balcony.  The rain was like this all day:


Typically, the monsoon is not debilitating although it does make travelling more difficult when heavy.  An umbrella is an important accessory and there is usually some rain every day, and heavy rain once every few days.  July is normally the heaviest month, so we've got three more weeks for the monsoon to show us what it can do (hopefully when I'm home and dry!)

A weekday evening out in Bandra

We are lucky to live in the restaurant capital of India.  I am not exaggerating when I say that there are hundreds of places to eat, including just about every type of international cuisine you could reasonably expect, within 1km of our apartment.  There are always new places opening, usually in line with the latest foody trends, and we try these out when we can.

Last night we covered three places in one.  First, we stopped off at the new "Monkey Bar" for a pre-dinner drink - ice tea for me and a cocktail for Phil.  The Monkey Bar is a Bangalore import and is essentially a pub which serves lots of "small plates" of food with a mixture of Western and Indian influence.  It's a cool and relaxed place and a favourite of Phil's which I suspect is partly owing to the monkey branding!  His current favourite cocktail is the whisky based "Copper Monkey" which apparently comes highly recommended.

Eagerly anticipating entry to the Monkey Bar 

Monkey Bar interior (from a previous visit, but you get the idea...)

Next, we moved on to the "Fatty Bao", a much-hyped new ramen restaurant (another Bangalore import, like the Monkey Bar above) which opened in Bandra on Monday.  We arrived exactly at opening time and were lucky to get a table as they were fully booked.  I'm very glad that we did as our duck gyoza, crispy tofu bao and soupy ramen were excellent.  The ramen was a highlight for me - mine was packed with various kinds of exotic mushrooms, although was pretty salty, the only fault I could find.

 Eagerly awaiting our food, enjoying the kimchi nibbles

Feeling satisfied post-ramen

Now full of ramen, the 100m walk down the road to a new icecream bar was enough to prepare us for pudding.  There are plenty of icecream shops in Bandra but this one is a little different as all the icecream is made in front of you using liquid nitrogen which we were told is the first bar of its kind in India!  There is a wide ranges of flavours and sundae options although we settled with a simple cone and chocolate mint icecream (made with a mixture of chocolate cream and fresh mint leaves).  It was rich, tasty and fun to watch the icecream being made behind the counter.

The new coolest place in town 

A range of sundaes, complete with benzene ring (vaguely) presentation 

Menu and equipment - pretty reasonably priced at less than 100 rupees for a decent sized waffle cone and icecream 

Our liquid icecream pre-freezing 

Smoking! 

Enjoying the end result

All three venues for the evening had staff who went out of their way to speak to us, tell us more about the background to the restaurant and food and really make us feel welcome.  There is huge competition in the area which means that restaurants / shops have to fight to do well and so ensure excellent service to keep your custom.  I think we are a bit of a novelty too as foreigners who have lived in the local area for a while so the waiters / managers / shop assistants tend to want to chat and find out more about us.

We have several other local favourite spots, some of which have only recently arrived in Bandra, including The Sassy Spoon for great fresh light lunches and desserts, Doolally for craft beer, Pizza Metro Pizza for authentic pizza and pasta, Kofuko for great Japanese food and Lemon Leaf for reliable Thai takeaway, although there are many many more good places to eat and drink nearby.  There are still many places that we haven't tried within a short walk of our apartment, although we are trying our best to remedy this!

As if to remind us that the Bandra restaurant scene is not typical of Indian life, Phil was caught in a very Indian traffic jam on the way to pick me up from the office to go to dinner.  A herd of cows was blocking the road at one of the biggest junctions in the area!

Cow in the road