This year, Easter arrived before we had noticed it coming, partly because we had friends visiting for two weeks beforehand, as we do not have a regular connection to the church calendar through bell ringing, and further because we didn't have the usual two month build-up period of Easter Egg adverts and supermarket offers to remind us that Easter is on its way. We live in an area of Mumbai with a large Catholic community (arising from Portuguese colonisation) so there were some signs that Easter was approaching, but nothing like what we are used to in the UK.
Easter started for us with a gift from one of my work colleagues, who was born and brought up in Bandra, of a home-made traditional Easter sweet, made from almond paste and cashew nuts. Chocolate is not associated with Easter in India (for obvious reasons, it hit 40 degrees in Mumbai this weekend) but sweet goodies seem to play a big part in all festivals, irrespective of the religion in question.
This is the first year that we haven't spent the long Easter weekend with family. On Easter Sunday, we would usually go to church before enjoying lunch at home so we decided to head south for the Easter Sunday service at the Afghan Church in South Mumbai. We travelled down on a local train (separate blog post to follow about this experience) and arrived on time for the service due to start at 830am.
Although we arrived on time, none of the rest of the congregation had done the same, although the vicar did walk in at about the time that the service was due to start. The service started 10 minutes late and was pretty similar to an equivalent service in the UK, though with the slightly comical edge of a clergyman who spoke incredibly quickly, to the point where it felt like a challenge to read / speak quickly enough at the points when the congregation is supposed to join in. The congregation trickled in over time and was up to about 40 people when the service finished. We were warmly welcomed and invited to join for post-service refreshment (this turned out to be lamb stew with white bread, not my usual 930am on a Sunday food on a hot day!).
Once we had spent a pleasant few minutes chatting, we moved on to visit the Prince of Wales museum, housed in an impressive domed building close to the Taj Hotel and Gateway of India. This is proper museum (it has exhibitions twinned with the British Museum), with well-presented exhibits and working audio guides. We spent an interesting couple of hours exploring the exhibits although the museum wasn't air-conditioned, so I spent a significant proportion of the time looking for big stand-up fans and standing in front of them. It was seriously hot.
We spent a while wondering around and looking in various cavernous shops but the range of goods for sale is over-whelming. We will go again when we know what we what (and what we are willing to spend...). The area is fascinating though a fun to wander around, whether or not you want or intend to buy anything.
Sweltering by this point, we headed back up north (in a taxi this time) to shower, relax and Skype family later in the day.
Easter started for us with a gift from one of my work colleagues, who was born and brought up in Bandra, of a home-made traditional Easter sweet, made from almond paste and cashew nuts. Chocolate is not associated with Easter in India (for obvious reasons, it hit 40 degrees in Mumbai this weekend) but sweet goodies seem to play a big part in all festivals, irrespective of the religion in question.
A traditional Indian Easter sweet
This is the first year that we haven't spent the long Easter weekend with family. On Easter Sunday, we would usually go to church before enjoying lunch at home so we decided to head south for the Easter Sunday service at the Afghan Church in South Mumbai. We travelled down on a local train (separate blog post to follow about this experience) and arrived on time for the service due to start at 830am.
Although we arrived on time, none of the rest of the congregation had done the same, although the vicar did walk in at about the time that the service was due to start. The service started 10 minutes late and was pretty similar to an equivalent service in the UK, though with the slightly comical edge of a clergyman who spoke incredibly quickly, to the point where it felt like a challenge to read / speak quickly enough at the points when the congregation is supposed to join in. The congregation trickled in over time and was up to about 40 people when the service finished. We were warmly welcomed and invited to join for post-service refreshment (this turned out to be lamb stew with white bread, not my usual 930am on a Sunday food on a hot day!).
Once we had spent a pleasant few minutes chatting, we moved on to visit the Prince of Wales museum, housed in an impressive domed building close to the Taj Hotel and Gateway of India. This is proper museum (it has exhibitions twinned with the British Museum), with well-presented exhibits and working audio guides. We spent an interesting couple of hours exploring the exhibits although the museum wasn't air-conditioned, so I spent a significant proportion of the time looking for big stand-up fans and standing in front of them. It was seriously hot.
Looking down at the main entrance hall from inside the dome
A tourist group approaching the main entrance
The Prince of Wales museum in beautiful grounds
Overall, the Prince of Wales museum is well worth a visit and provides a decent overview of the history of Indian art and culture, as well as an interesting photographic timeline of the history of Mumbai. It also has a museum shop full of lovely stuff; although at prices which simply make me look at things and decide to buy them elsewhere.
By the time we had finished at the museum I was hot, sweaty, and consequentially a bit grumpy and in need of a peaceful lunch in an air-conditioned environment. The Woodside Inn at the top of Colaba Causeway did an excellent job of fulfilling this requirement, getting me back on my feet to explore Chor Bazaar in the afternoon. Phil doesn't seem to have problem coping with the heat, something of which I'm a little bit jealous at this time of year.
Chor Bazaar is an area in South Mumbai full of shops selling everything and anything, the Indian equivalent of a permanent car boot sale or antiques fair, depending on the quality of the goods that you are looking for. Several expats have recommended this area as a great place to pick up quirky items at low prices, although its also one of the best places in the city to get completely ripped off (there is strong competition for this accolade). We were told on no account to ever pay more than half the asking price, however much we think that we want the item on offer.
Walking down Mutton Street - Some of the smells lived up to the name
Piles and piles of stuff
Spanner anyone?!
We spent a while wondering around and looking in various cavernous shops but the range of goods for sale is over-whelming. We will go again when we know what we what (and what we are willing to spend...). The area is fascinating though a fun to wander around, whether or not you want or intend to buy anything.
Sweltering by this point, we headed back up north (in a taxi this time) to shower, relax and Skype family later in the day.
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