Monday, March 17, 2014

More visitors! Tessa and Leigh come to India, and we all go to Goa.

We were very happy to welcome Tessa and Leigh to Mumbai at the end of February who came to see us for just under a week as part of a longer holiday in India.  Tessa and Leigh were our first visitors of 2014, but it's great to know that lots more family and friends have booked to come and stay, so we will have a steady stream of guests for the rest of this year at least.  There's a lot to look forward to!

Tessa and Leigh saw the sites of Mumbai, including the heritage areas of the south, Juhu Beach, the Dharavi tour and a visit to a nearby hill station outside the city, not to mention trying lots of Indian food (with no serious ill effects, a commendable result).  The highlight though was undoubtedly our weekend break to Goa, which we'd booked on the recommendation of Tessa's sister Polly who had visited our chosen beach in Goa on a recent holiday.

We've been to Goa twice previously and, honestly, I was a little underwhelmed relative to my expectations.  We hadn't found the tropical paradise that I'd expected and I hadn't seen beaches which were a patch on the beach that we stayed on in Zanzibar in 2011.  To me, it seemed spoilt by too many tourists and litter.  Admittedly though, we had stayed in hotels away from the beach, which probably didn't help.  Our weekend away with Tessa and Leigh changed my view entirely as we stayed on the idyllic Agonda beach, in beach huts which were both natural and in keeping with the surrounding environment, but luxurious enough such that I felt like I was on holiday!

Agonda is simply wonderful.  The beach is of pure white sand, not covered in rubbish, and lined with beach huts which means that it is vibrant but not too busy, at least not when we visited.  There are even turtle nests on the beach (wow!) and plenty of fresh fish to stock the beach side restaurants.  I had the biggest prawn I've ever seen for dinner on Saturday; all the fresh fruit, veg and fish that we ate was excellent.  The beach is 1.5 hours south of the airport but well worth the drive.  South Goa is generally quieter and less "party-focused" than North Goa and Agonda was pretty much perfect for what we were looking for.

Agonda White Sand - Our beach hut homes for the weekend 

The rather nice beach 

A traditional Goan boat.  These were dotted along the beach. 

Cow on beach.  This is India. 

Enjoying the warmth and sunshine.  Unlike us, Tessa and Leigh had come from four months of bad English weather and were making the most of the contrast in India. 

Sunset with evolutionary walkers. 

Turtle eggs hatching zone

We spent the weekend reading, walking, running (a bit, it was hot!), paddling, snoozing and generally moving into super-relaxation mode.  The sea was warm though the tides strong so we didn't go deep into the water, though wallowing in the shallows was lovely.  Agonda itself is a pretty village which we explored a little (Tessa and Leigh went a bit further afield on a motorbike) but it was a bit too tempting to simply stay on the beach and relax.

On Sunday morning, we hired a boat and mini-crew (a local teenager Phil met on the beach and his mate) to take us out to see dolphins and some small nearby coves.  We were sceptical, but did actually see (and hear) dolphins which was fantastic.  We visited a nearby beach ("butterfly beach") which would have been a lovely deserted spot except lots of other boats had the same idea as us.  It was still good fun to have a trip out in a traditional Goan boat.

 Preparing to board
 
Enjoying the ride 

Butterfly beach, named for the shape of the hills behind

I'm not sure when we'll next make it to Agonda, probably after the next monsoon season, but I would love to visit again.  It's definitely my top relaxing beach recommendation of our time in India so far (but don't tell anyone, or they'll all want to go!).

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