Last weekend we welcomed our first guest to our apartment, Rosie Brooke, who is currently two months into a six month secondment in Bangalore. We've been really looking forward to having friends and family coming to stay and Rosie's visit was our first opportunity to think about what to do in Mumbai as a tourist. Mumbai is so large and complex that it's tricky to capture in one weekend, but we put an itinerary together to give Rosie a decent overview of the city, allowing time for catching up and (a little of) relaxation too.
Rosie proved to be the perfect guest in that (i) she was completely easy going about where we went and what we did; and (ii) she's already been living in India for a while so knew what to expect from Mumbai. It was lovely to have her staying for the weekend - thanks Rosie!
Rosie's plane landed at 1030pm on Friday so we took the opportunity of our driver Sagar working in the evening to travel to one of the restaurants on my "to do" list - The Banana Leaf, just north of Juhu. This restaurant serves pure veg south Indian cuisine and is now one of my favourite places to eat in Mumbai. The masala uttapam was simply awesome as a starter and the mains equally good (a mushroom dish and green mango / pumpkin curry) though when South Indian food is described as spicy that *means* spicy. My mouth was on fire and was only cooled by a coconut milk based pudding; hence we were feeling full and content when setting off for the airport at 10pm.
After an uneventful airport pick-up (Sagar's been having "police problems" there recently...usually resulting in a 100 rupee fine), and a late evening beer at home, we were ready to head to South Mumbai for a day of sightseeing on Saturday. We decided to go to see the Elephanta Caves which are situated on a small island to the east of South Mumbai, accessible by a one hour trip on a rather rickety boat.
After parking up and a quick toilet trip to use the facilities at the Taj Mahal Hotel (possibly the fanciest bathrooms I've ever used, we were intending to go for a drink at the hotel later on though ran out of time...), we stopped for a look at the majestic Gateway of India before boarding a boat to the island. The trip is worth it for the views back to the mainland, where you can imagine how it must have felt for those arriving in Mumbai in the past after a long sea voyage, when ships docked at the Gateway of India. Less convenient perhaps, but more spectualar than landing at the building site of the international airport surrounded by slum!
The island itself is a major tourist attraction and the 20 minute walk up to the caves is therefore lined with stalls selling tourist tat, but it is jolly and still spacious and quiet relative to Mumbai. Again, the caves themselves are old and with some large carvings, though it's probably best to visit before visiting Ajanta / Ellora or even Karna caves as the Elephanta Caves are on a much smaller scale and not nearly as impressive. The area was though full of family, friends and couples enjoying a Saturday trip out and the views over the island and mainland were good.
The main attraction, in my view, was the monkeys. My previous monkey experiences have not been positive; they have either been big, aggressive and threatening, or mangy, mischievous and suspiciously rabid-looking; but Elephanta island has partially restored my faith in the monkey race. These one were small, not interested in us, and very sharp and dextrous. We spent a while watching pairs of monkeys preening, with one lazing and lying full length out in the sun, whilst the other carefully removed all its fleas, one by one. They looked incredibly human and the little ones were having great fun play fighting and tree climbing. Phil's handbell hopes have risen - he thinks that these one might be trainable!
After a snooze on the boat home, we (yet again) failed to get into Brittania (v.old Parsi restaurant) owing to a big queue outside and instead tried Ideal Corner, a Parsi cafe and conveniently another place in my book which needed ticking off. Getting there involved a bit of carnage-life driving the wrong way up a one way street, but we enjoyed some tasty and meaty fare (I liked the Kheema dish) once we arrived.
After a swift driving tour around the main old sites of South Mumbai (Victoria Terminus, The Oval Maiden, Flora Fountain, Marine Drive etc.) we headed home for a bit of relaxed film watching before going out for dinner. Tata Sky has lots of English language films but with comprehensive bad language censoring...watching Notting Hill whilst trying to fill in the blanks added a new level of fun to seeing a Richard Curtis film.
We went to our favourite Mumbai snack destination, ELCO, for dinner. I hope that after Pani Puri, Bhel Puri, Sev Puri, Pav Bhaji and more, that Rosie has been converted to the wondrous street food of Mumbai. A warning to all future visitors - you will be taken to ELCO - whether you like it or not!
As proof that we are all getting old, we were shattered and in bed by 10 o'clock. After a pleasant lie-in (except Phil, who went for his early Sunday morning run) we were geared up for the weekend ringing slot, our first quarter peal in India, of Plain Bob Minor. We were not cruel enough to force Rosie into a peal, plus we'd all had a nice long lie-in so wouldn't have had time anyway. The quarter peal was uneventful (bar a very late single, which 1-2 and 3-4 managed with great poise and calm in my opinion) and proof that none of us had forgotten how to ring handbells. I'm not sure that Rosie will take up our peal invitation, but we hope that she comes round to the idea:-) This was hopefully the first of many more ringing performances in our apartment.
http://bb.ringingworld.co.uk/view.php?id=312033
With the ringing completed, we caught an autoricksaw up to Juhu Beach for a Sunday morning stroll amongst the many cricket games on the sand. Juhu Beach is not a perfect, clean, soft-sand paradise but I like it a lot; it is genuinely valuable open space in Mumbai to be treasured, and brings happiness and relaxation to so many Mumbaikars, especially those who like cricket.
We met with friends, David and Catherine, for lunch on Bandra's Carter Road and were ready for a snooze after a couple of hours of breakfast grub, waffles, sangria, sun and conversation. After cooling down at the apartment, and a nice cup of tea, Rosie and Phil departed for the airport (Rosie back to Bangalore, Phil to Singapore for a brief work visit) and I was left alone.
And what better way to end an excellent weekend than with the final episode of Series 4 of Downton Abbey. I'm pleased to confirm that the new DVD player is working perfectly and I have more than made up for lost Downton time since the failure of the old one.
Rosie proved to be the perfect guest in that (i) she was completely easy going about where we went and what we did; and (ii) she's already been living in India for a while so knew what to expect from Mumbai. It was lovely to have her staying for the weekend - thanks Rosie!
Rosie's plane landed at 1030pm on Friday so we took the opportunity of our driver Sagar working in the evening to travel to one of the restaurants on my "to do" list - The Banana Leaf, just north of Juhu. This restaurant serves pure veg south Indian cuisine and is now one of my favourite places to eat in Mumbai. The masala uttapam was simply awesome as a starter and the mains equally good (a mushroom dish and green mango / pumpkin curry) though when South Indian food is described as spicy that *means* spicy. My mouth was on fire and was only cooled by a coconut milk based pudding; hence we were feeling full and content when setting off for the airport at 10pm.
Twinkly lights and an illuminated triangular arch led us into the restaurant
Tasty South Indian curry and chutney, served on a banana leaf as expected
After an uneventful airport pick-up (Sagar's been having "police problems" there recently...usually resulting in a 100 rupee fine), and a late evening beer at home, we were ready to head to South Mumbai for a day of sightseeing on Saturday. We decided to go to see the Elephanta Caves which are situated on a small island to the east of South Mumbai, accessible by a one hour trip on a rather rickety boat.
After parking up and a quick toilet trip to use the facilities at the Taj Mahal Hotel (possibly the fanciest bathrooms I've ever used, we were intending to go for a drink at the hotel later on though ran out of time...), we stopped for a look at the majestic Gateway of India before boarding a boat to the island. The trip is worth it for the views back to the mainland, where you can imagine how it must have felt for those arriving in Mumbai in the past after a long sea voyage, when ships docked at the Gateway of India. Less convenient perhaps, but more spectualar than landing at the building site of the international airport surrounded by slum!
The Gateway of India
On the top deck of the boat (a 10 rupee surcharge). Phil's hair starting sticking up at funny angles after he put his hat on wet hair in the morning.
Classic Mumbai - The Gateway of India and Taj Hotel - host to Prime Ministers, Presidents and English people after a pleasant bathroom experience pre-boat trip.
The island itself is a major tourist attraction and the 20 minute walk up to the caves is therefore lined with stalls selling tourist tat, but it is jolly and still spacious and quiet relative to Mumbai. Again, the caves themselves are old and with some large carvings, though it's probably best to visit before visiting Ajanta / Ellora or even Karna caves as the Elephanta Caves are on a much smaller scale and not nearly as impressive. The area was though full of family, friends and couples enjoying a Saturday trip out and the views over the island and mainland were good.
There is a toy train from the jetty to the steps up to the caves. We walked.
Chair transport - one chair, two sticks, four men. There is something a little uncomfortable (but also quite comical) about watching four lean Indian men carry a (more than portly) white man up a hill for 500 rupees.
Lots of rock.
Lots of carvings. We didn't get a guide as Phil had hired one on a previous visit, but unfortunately couldn't remember the fine detail when we got to the caves.
Another v.big carving
Jennie and Rosie enjoying the (35 degree) sunshine.
The main attraction, in my view, was the monkeys. My previous monkey experiences have not been positive; they have either been big, aggressive and threatening, or mangy, mischievous and suspiciously rabid-looking; but Elephanta island has partially restored my faith in the monkey race. These one were small, not interested in us, and very sharp and dextrous. We spent a while watching pairs of monkeys preening, with one lazing and lying full length out in the sun, whilst the other carefully removed all its fleas, one by one. They looked incredibly human and the little ones were having great fun play fighting and tree climbing. Phil's handbell hopes have risen - he thinks that these one might be trainable!
Large cannon on top of the imaginative named "Cannon Hill". This has something to do with the Portuguese.
Monkey preening
Monkey cuddles
I like the pair of monkeys in the background - someone is definitely enjoying his cleaning session.
After a snooze on the boat home, we (yet again) failed to get into Brittania (v.old Parsi restaurant) owing to a big queue outside and instead tried Ideal Corner, a Parsi cafe and conveniently another place in my book which needed ticking off. Getting there involved a bit of carnage-life driving the wrong way up a one way street, but we enjoyed some tasty and meaty fare (I liked the Kheema dish) once we arrived.
Lunchtime Parsi fodder - Meat and pineapple juice.
After a swift driving tour around the main old sites of South Mumbai (Victoria Terminus, The Oval Maiden, Flora Fountain, Marine Drive etc.) we headed home for a bit of relaxed film watching before going out for dinner. Tata Sky has lots of English language films but with comprehensive bad language censoring...watching Notting Hill whilst trying to fill in the blanks added a new level of fun to seeing a Richard Curtis film.
We went to our favourite Mumbai snack destination, ELCO, for dinner. I hope that after Pani Puri, Bhel Puri, Sev Puri, Pav Bhaji and more, that Rosie has been converted to the wondrous street food of Mumbai. A warning to all future visitors - you will be taken to ELCO - whether you like it or not!
As proof that we are all getting old, we were shattered and in bed by 10 o'clock. After a pleasant lie-in (except Phil, who went for his early Sunday morning run) we were geared up for the weekend ringing slot, our first quarter peal in India, of Plain Bob Minor. We were not cruel enough to force Rosie into a peal, plus we'd all had a nice long lie-in so wouldn't have had time anyway. The quarter peal was uneventful (bar a very late single, which 1-2 and 3-4 managed with great poise and calm in my opinion) and proof that none of us had forgotten how to ring handbells. I'm not sure that Rosie will take up our peal invitation, but we hope that she comes round to the idea:-) This was hopefully the first of many more ringing performances in our apartment.
http://bb.ringingworld.co.uk/view.php?id=312033
The first handbell quarter in India for all.
With the ringing completed, we caught an autoricksaw up to Juhu Beach for a Sunday morning stroll amongst the many cricket games on the sand. Juhu Beach is not a perfect, clean, soft-sand paradise but I like it a lot; it is genuinely valuable open space in Mumbai to be treasured, and brings happiness and relaxation to so many Mumbaikars, especially those who like cricket.
We met with friends, David and Catherine, for lunch on Bandra's Carter Road and were ready for a snooze after a couple of hours of breakfast grub, waffles, sangria, sun and conversation. After cooling down at the apartment, and a nice cup of tea, Rosie and Phil departed for the airport (Rosie back to Bangalore, Phil to Singapore for a brief work visit) and I was left alone.
Phil with the Viennese breakfast and a particularly girly strawberry smoothie.
And what better way to end an excellent weekend than with the final episode of Series 4 of Downton Abbey. I'm pleased to confirm that the new DVD player is working perfectly and I have more than made up for lost Downton time since the failure of the old one.
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