Yesterday, we decided to make the most of a weekend at home in Mumbai by spending a pleasant afternoon watching horse racing at Mahalaxmi racecourse in the south of the city. We had visited the ground previously as it is also one of the city's best running venues, with a 2.2km walking and running track which can be used when the horses are not in action.
In Mumbai's winter months, there are races at Mahalaxmi on Thursday, Saturday and Sunday each week. Yesterday afternoon, there were ten races, each over a 1000m to 1600m course. Mahalaxmi racecourse was built by the British at the height of the Empire and retains a delightfully colonial air. We had arranged to meet with friends who advised that we should enter the most expensive "Members-only" area, which has a dress code requiring men to wear a jacket or tie, a very formal requirement for relaxed Bombay. Upon arrival, we found that you don't actually have to be a member to enter if you are (i) foreign; (ii) and willing to pay a 160 rupee (£1.60) entrance fee. Phil remembered to wear a tie, but there was a stall selling ties outside the entrance (very entrepreneurial!) so he could have procured one easily if not.
The Members' Area was really very pleasant and comprises of a three floor grandstand (complete with wooden seats assigned to members and many creaking old fans), the paddock where horses are paraded, a main betting area, lots of betting booths, and a pleasant sprinkling of cafes. The whole area felt like it was in a time warp, with plenty of doddery old Indians and long-time Expats kitted out in their full safari suits and ties. My favourite aspect was the abundance of space inside the ground; a rarity in Mumbai and well worth the 160 rupee entrance fee in itself.
Unlike my previous experience of going to the races in UK, the refreshments in Mahalaxmi were remarkably inexpensive (30 rupees for a soft drink, 8 rupees for a chai). We did eventually find the beer bar too which was selling for just over £1 a bottle. We have lots of friends who would have a good afternoon at these races!
After some exploring and investigating the betting process and placed a princely 100 rupee bet on each of the final seven races. Amazingly, we actually won on two of the races so ended up slightly up overall. Our winning tactic seemed to be picking the horse with a certain training / owner combination. The dress of the jockeys and format of the races themselves could have been in the UK; as you might expect, there was a lot of old British influence on the way that the races are run.
There were also some rather crazy aspects of the proceedings like the semi-naked Eastern European dance troop in an entertainment tent (completely bizarre) and horses being paraded round the paddock by men wearing sack-like garments before the jockeys got on but, all in all, it was a very civilised event.
We met up with friends of ours who moved to Mumbai from Ireland (via London) in September, and their local friends who are members at the racecourse, so it was a good fun and sociable afternoon.
Once the races had finished, we tried to go for dinner at local restaurant but had arrived too early (it was shut), so instead one of our companions offered to take us to The Willingdon Club opposite, the most prestigious club in Bombay. This is closed to all but oldest sons and daughters of existing members, and a limited number of corporate members, so we were very fortunate to be invited by a member. The club is located in a prime area of South Bombay and has an 18 hole golf course, tennis courts, swimming facilities and beautiful lawns and a clubhouse. We spent a happy two hours having drinks and dinner with friends in the excellent bar before heading home ready for an early start in the morning.
All in all, a grand day out.
In Mumbai's winter months, there are races at Mahalaxmi on Thursday, Saturday and Sunday each week. Yesterday afternoon, there were ten races, each over a 1000m to 1600m course. Mahalaxmi racecourse was built by the British at the height of the Empire and retains a delightfully colonial air. We had arranged to meet with friends who advised that we should enter the most expensive "Members-only" area, which has a dress code requiring men to wear a jacket or tie, a very formal requirement for relaxed Bombay. Upon arrival, we found that you don't actually have to be a member to enter if you are (i) foreign; (ii) and willing to pay a 160 rupee (£1.60) entrance fee. Phil remembered to wear a tie, but there was a stall selling ties outside the entrance (very entrepreneurial!) so he could have procured one easily if not.
The Members' Area was really very pleasant and comprises of a three floor grandstand (complete with wooden seats assigned to members and many creaking old fans), the paddock where horses are paraded, a main betting area, lots of betting booths, and a pleasant sprinkling of cafes. The whole area felt like it was in a time warp, with plenty of doddery old Indians and long-time Expats kitted out in their full safari suits and ties. My favourite aspect was the abundance of space inside the ground; a rarity in Mumbai and well worth the 160 rupee entrance fee in itself.
Unlike my previous experience of going to the races in UK, the refreshments in Mahalaxmi were remarkably inexpensive (30 rupees for a soft drink, 8 rupees for a chai). We did eventually find the beer bar too which was selling for just over £1 a bottle. We have lots of friends who would have a good afternoon at these races!
After some exploring and investigating the betting process and placed a princely 100 rupee bet on each of the final seven races. Amazingly, we actually won on two of the races so ended up slightly up overall. Our winning tactic seemed to be picking the horse with a certain training / owner combination. The dress of the jockeys and format of the races themselves could have been in the UK; as you might expect, there was a lot of old British influence on the way that the races are run.
There were also some rather crazy aspects of the proceedings like the semi-naked Eastern European dance troop in an entertainment tent (completely bizarre) and horses being paraded round the paddock by men wearing sack-like garments before the jockeys got on but, all in all, it was a very civilised event.
We met up with friends of ours who moved to Mumbai from Ireland (via London) in September, and their local friends who are members at the racecourse, so it was a good fun and sociable afternoon.
One of the outdoor betting stations
A happy Phil with a beer and his winnings
View of the racecourse (and finish line) from the grandstand
Jockey looking smart in his silks
Odds chalked onto the board. It was worth shopping around for these - the odds did tend to differ between the different stands
The betting area in the main (not members-only) grandstand - a larger scale and more chaotic affair
Parading in the paddock
People wandering along the track to fill in the holes between races
Phil creating his betting masterplan
Outside the members only grandstand
Horses in motion
Once the races had finished, we tried to go for dinner at local restaurant but had arrived too early (it was shut), so instead one of our companions offered to take us to The Willingdon Club opposite, the most prestigious club in Bombay. This is closed to all but oldest sons and daughters of existing members, and a limited number of corporate members, so we were very fortunate to be invited by a member. The club is located in a prime area of South Bombay and has an 18 hole golf course, tennis courts, swimming facilities and beautiful lawns and a clubhouse. We spent a happy two hours having drinks and dinner with friends in the excellent bar before heading home ready for an early start in the morning.
Main entrance hall at The Willingdon Club
All in all, a grand day out.
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