We are trying to make the most of all our free weekends together whilst in India and decided to take a local trip away at the end of April, having already arranged lots of flights and longer jaunts in April and May.
Pune is the second city of Maharashtra, and lies an easy three to four hour drive to the south-east of Mumbai. The journey there is spectacular in itself, along the Mumbai-Pune highway which carves its away through the majestic crags of the Western Ghats, passing by several popular hill stations favoured for weekends away from both cities.
On the way to Pune, Phil had planned stops at both a set of caves (Bhaja) and the Lohagad (Iron) fort to break up the journey. This was all very well, but I need to explain the current state of the weather to put my views on climbing up hills at this time of year into context. It is roasting - pushing 40 degrees and humid - and frankly far too hot for any kind of physical activity. It's actually far too hot for anything. If you stand outside, in the shade, doing nothing, you will be soaked in sweat in no time, which is not my preferred state of being. I cannot wait for the monsoon, and there's still a month to go.
Weather complaints over, we parked at the hill of the foot of the caves and climbed up to look round. These are Buddhist caves and provided some shade, for which I was very grateful. Sagar, very sensibly, refused to walk anywhere in the heat and went to get a chai. Phil was keen to walk three miles up a very big hill to the fort, an idea which I firmly quashed. We drove up a very windy, gravelly path instead, when I kept my eyes firmly shut for fear that we would drive off the road and down the hill. Thankfully, we made it but Sagar and I decided that climbing up to the fort was unwise (it was so hot that the AC in the car had packed in) so we stayed in the shade while Phil went to investigate further.
Pune is a prosperous city with a strong international manufacturing presence and feels like a city at ease with itself. It still looks Indian, with litter and clear evidence of poverty, but felt more spacious and upmarket than many parts of Mumbai. It is a pleasant blend of historic but modern and progressive and doesn't suffer from the restrictions on space enforced on Mumbai by its position on the coast.
With this modern outlook in mind, we arrived in Pune in time for a late lunch when I was yearning for an air-conditioned environment and respectable toilet facilities. Phil had neither in mind and instead directed us to a famous but rather functional Missal Pav shop for lunch, which actually turned out to be excellent. Missal Pav is a traditional Maharashtrian snack of a thick, spicy vegetable curry which includes various pulses and crunchy bits, mopped up with soft white pav. The restaurant had two things on the menu; medium Missal Pav or spicy Missal Pav. I opted for medium which put my taste buds to the test (it was though yummy), whilst Phil and Sagar went for the spicy version, which made them both look like a dog which has accidentally eaten a chilly plant. They got through their food, just, and we went on our way to the hotel, stopping for an ice-cream en route to sate the fire in our mouths.
Before our hotel, we stopped at Agar Khan Palace, a mini stately home where Gandhi, his wife and secretary were interned for a few years prior to Independence. The exterior of the building is pleasant though the interiors a little tired, but it was shady so I was happy. There was an interesting display of Gandhi's effects and displays regarding his time in the palace, where his wife Kasturba passed away, although it was a pretty nice place to be imprisoned.
Our hotel did the job nicely; with a good gym, pool, bar showing the IPL and serving two for one beers in happy hour, and fully functioning air conditioning throughout. Happy days. Sagar was supposed to stay in the drivers' accommodation but quickly decided it was below par and caught the bus to see a friend instead.
In the morning, we left the solace of the hotel and visited the historic sites in the old part of the city; a fort, a temple (a Ganesh temple, impressively covered in silver) and a small museum devoted to Shivaji, the war hero of Maharashtra. The little museum was very insightful in that it summarised the various times in his life when Shivaji had faced opposition, and run his sword through all obstacles from a young age. He did well, but life was brutal in Shivaji's day. We also visited a local city farm which produces cheese and purchased some local boursin, smoked cheddar and feta. We've now consumed this all (and can confirm it was delicious) and are keen for the farm to start selling its goods in Mumbai as soon as possible.
Next we visited the famous German Bakery, a popular Expat spot which was sadly bombed a few years ago and now has security scanners as a consequence. We picked up some chocolate chip cookies (molten chocolate until they reached our fridge later in the day) to add to our cheese haul.
Finally, we visited a Parvati temple, which offered panoramic views of the city. I'm ashamed to say that I was suffering again from extreme heat by this stage and stood in the shade at the bottom of the hill whilst Phil (apparently immune to all changes in temperature) clambered up it. I've seen the photos, so that's nearly the same thing.
Pune is the second city of Maharashtra, and lies an easy three to four hour drive to the south-east of Mumbai. The journey there is spectacular in itself, along the Mumbai-Pune highway which carves its away through the majestic crags of the Western Ghats, passing by several popular hill stations favoured for weekends away from both cities.
On the way to Pune, Phil had planned stops at both a set of caves (Bhaja) and the Lohagad (Iron) fort to break up the journey. This was all very well, but I need to explain the current state of the weather to put my views on climbing up hills at this time of year into context. It is roasting - pushing 40 degrees and humid - and frankly far too hot for any kind of physical activity. It's actually far too hot for anything. If you stand outside, in the shade, doing nothing, you will be soaked in sweat in no time, which is not my preferred state of being. I cannot wait for the monsoon, and there's still a month to go.
Weather complaints over, we parked at the hill of the foot of the caves and climbed up to look round. These are Buddhist caves and provided some shade, for which I was very grateful. Sagar, very sensibly, refused to walk anywhere in the heat and went to get a chai. Phil was keen to walk three miles up a very big hill to the fort, an idea which I firmly quashed. We drove up a very windy, gravelly path instead, when I kept my eyes firmly shut for fear that we would drive off the road and down the hill. Thankfully, we made it but Sagar and I decided that climbing up to the fort was unwise (it was so hot that the AC in the car had packed in) so we stayed in the shade while Phil went to investigate further.
Cave structure similar to that seen in Karla and Ajanta
The Buddhist cave complex, nice and shady.
What are these? Anything remotely like this shape is usually lingum-related, but I'm not sure.
Looking up towards the fort
A few over the glorious landscape of the Western Ghats (otherwise known as The Lake District)
The main entrance to the fort - designed to make life very difficult for invaders.
Pune is a prosperous city with a strong international manufacturing presence and feels like a city at ease with itself. It still looks Indian, with litter and clear evidence of poverty, but felt more spacious and upmarket than many parts of Mumbai. It is a pleasant blend of historic but modern and progressive and doesn't suffer from the restrictions on space enforced on Mumbai by its position on the coast.
With this modern outlook in mind, we arrived in Pune in time for a late lunch when I was yearning for an air-conditioned environment and respectable toilet facilities. Phil had neither in mind and instead directed us to a famous but rather functional Missal Pav shop for lunch, which actually turned out to be excellent. Missal Pav is a traditional Maharashtrian snack of a thick, spicy vegetable curry which includes various pulses and crunchy bits, mopped up with soft white pav. The restaurant had two things on the menu; medium Missal Pav or spicy Missal Pav. I opted for medium which put my taste buds to the test (it was though yummy), whilst Phil and Sagar went for the spicy version, which made them both look like a dog which has accidentally eaten a chilly plant. They got through their food, just, and we went on our way to the hotel, stopping for an ice-cream en route to sate the fire in our mouths.
Magic missal. On my list of things to learn to cook
Before our hotel, we stopped at Agar Khan Palace, a mini stately home where Gandhi, his wife and secretary were interned for a few years prior to Independence. The exterior of the building is pleasant though the interiors a little tired, but it was shady so I was happy. There was an interesting display of Gandhi's effects and displays regarding his time in the palace, where his wife Kasturba passed away, although it was a pretty nice place to be imprisoned.
The Agar Khan Palace
Mr and Mrs Gandhiji
The palace from an angle
Posing (in the shade)
Our hotel did the job nicely; with a good gym, pool, bar showing the IPL and serving two for one beers in happy hour, and fully functioning air conditioning throughout. Happy days. Sagar was supposed to stay in the drivers' accommodation but quickly decided it was below par and caught the bus to see a friend instead.
In the morning, we left the solace of the hotel and visited the historic sites in the old part of the city; a fort, a temple (a Ganesh temple, impressively covered in silver) and a small museum devoted to Shivaji, the war hero of Maharashtra. The little museum was very insightful in that it summarised the various times in his life when Shivaji had faced opposition, and run his sword through all obstacles from a young age. He did well, but life was brutal in Shivaji's day. We also visited a local city farm which produces cheese and purchased some local boursin, smoked cheddar and feta. We've now consumed this all (and can confirm it was delicious) and are keen for the farm to start selling its goods in Mumbai as soon as possible.
Proper cheese, European-style
Outside the main fort
Inside the main fort
Temple
Next we visited the famous German Bakery, a popular Expat spot which was sadly bombed a few years ago and now has security scanners as a consequence. We picked up some chocolate chip cookies (molten chocolate until they reached our fridge later in the day) to add to our cheese haul.
Ordering delectable orange pumpkin cookies
Finally, we visited a Parvati temple, which offered panoramic views of the city. I'm ashamed to say that I was suffering again from extreme heat by this stage and stood in the shade at the bottom of the hill whilst Phil (apparently immune to all changes in temperature) clambered up it. I've seen the photos, so that's nearly the same thing.
View from the Parvati temple at the top of the hill
View waiting below the Parvati temple at the bottom of the hill
We enjoyed some traditional sweets on the way home, bought from outside the temple, which also feature in my Mumbai cookery book. On the way to the main highway, Sagar suddenly realised that we were very close to his cousin's house so we stopped there too. We were very humbled to have lunch cooked for us and I was given a present (an orange sari) as a first time guest to the house. This was very generous and we were made very welcome to their home.
Yummy coconut
Receiving my gift in the traditional style
Cooking our lunch. Poha-focus.
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