It's been a week since my last post, in which time Phil has been to Singapore and Taiwan and back, whilst I have been continuing to settle in Mumbai.
Before you start to read, I must apologise that this doesn't have any photos. I am very poor at taking photos when Phil isn't around. I will try to dig some relevant ones out and add them soon!
I feel like it's been a quiet week but one in which we have made significant progress in getting ourselves set up in Mumbai. We have confirmed our apartment, purchased a car and found a driver, for a two week trial at least, starting this Tuesday. Although we've had no problem getting around in autoricksaws and "cool cabs", having the car will give us a much greater degree of security and freedom to explore the city. We also knew that the apartment and car would be the two big ticket items to sort out upon our arrival in Bombay, so it is relief to have these in place.
Further, I have successfully registered at the FRRO (Foreigners Regional Registration Office) and am now an offical resident, which allows me to do all sorts of exciting things like get a bank account and mobile phone, both of which are now in progress. I had heard horror stories about this taking four hours in a sweltering office but it was actually remarkably quick for me (I was out in an hour), though I have a sneaking suspicion that this had been influenced in advance by the company helping me with this. This could have been beginners luck, but was good nonetheless.
The FRRO office itself is South Mumbai and feels like somewhere from another age. Whilst sitting in the queue, I caught a glimpse into a side office which seemed to be stacked with the same folders as I was made to purchase (30 rupees, a side line money maker for the office staff) to present my papers, and hence I assume is the storage facility for foreign residents of India. Although how you would go about finding papers in that room, I really don't know. The registration process required an unbelievable volume of signatures and information, but this seemed to be enough, and I was duly issued with my residency certificate.
Moving on to the apartment, we now know that agreeing the lease on an apartment in Bombay is a quite extraordinary experience. EVERY aspect of the lease is painfully negotiated until the two parties can agree and negotiation tactics are critical. Bombay is not a cheap city so getting this right makes a big difference.
Thankfully, we had our agent to help and I do not know how anyone from outside India could manage all this effectively on their own. On Wednesday, I was picked up from work to meet the owner after initial discussions had taken place in my absence. The current price on the table from the owner was too high for us, but our agent was confident that we could get this down. Apparently the apartment had been previously let to expats from my company which gave the owner confidence and he was keen to have us as tenants if the price was right.
On the journey to meet the owner, at his (large and palatial) furniture shop, I was given my instructions by our agent. Do not say anything. At all. When he tries to make you increase your current offer, just stay silent or insist that our current offer is the most you can possibly stretch to, and the agent will do the rest. As a newly arrived white expat, being silent is the most useful contribution I would be able to make.
This strategy set out, we met in the office of the furniture shop with five people squished in a small room. Me, the owner, his broker, my agent, his broker......We are quickly learning that India functions with more people rather than fewer! I found the whole experience both fascinating and bizarre. There was a lot of animated discussion, some which I felt got fairly heated, but I think this is par for the course. There were also long periods where people were looking at me to say something (including my agent!) and I just stayed quiet as instructed, which was all quite strange. Everyone seemed pretty amiable at the end of it but, as far as I could see, we were not going to get close enough together to agree a deal. I was disappointed but, we had tried, and I was prepared to look elsewhere. I was rather surprised when our agent told me in the car that it had gone well and that he expected to receive a lower offer the next day. I was skeptical, but he was right.
Anyway, we have agreed a lease (admittedly to be signed tomorrow, so no chickens are being counted yet) on a 7th floor apartment in the heart of Bandra and very close to my work. It is bigger than we intended (has four bedrooms and bathrooms) which feels excessive, but it gave us the space, light, location and everything else that we wanted. Now that we have this, we would like lots of visitors, please, and soon. Family and friends, please start booking in!
We have been exploring the area around the apartment this weekend and there are more cafes, restaurants and shops than we could possibly need. We'll be moving into the apartment in two weeks' time (before our shipment arrives, but there is some furniture in place) and looking forward to having our own home again.
We have found a local supermarket packed with imported goods, some at quite astonishing prices (£20 for a bottle of Yellow Tail Merlot anyone?, £6 for a packet of dried pasta?), but it's good to know it's there and there is a wide range of goods available. If we have a sudden craving for chocolate digestive biscuits in the future then we will know where to go. The concept of a supermarket is rare in India, the vast majority of food is bought through small individual vendors, so I expect that we will be doing both whilst we are here.
Otherwise, I have simply being experiencing the life of a lone traveler in a hotel over the past week. Many staff now seem to know who I am which has its upsides (continuing complimentary desserts, popcorn and drinks with DVDs, friendly chats etc.) and its downsides. I followed Philip's path of ill health earlier this week, albeit mildly, and ordered the required medicine through the hotel doctor. In the morning, the housekeeper, several waiters, lift man and door man all asked me if I was feeling better. How did they all know?!?! Only a little bit embarrassing, if well intended. I'm much better now, and expect that we'll get used to Indian germs soon. We've been told that you are much more likely to get ill in the monsoon so it should be a lot easier once the rains subside.
I enjoyed the superb evening of tennis on Friday, though fell asleep halfway through the Murray match, though this was close to 1am, so I can be excused. I am very much looking forward to what should be an excellent final this evening.
That's all for now. Off to get some dinner before the match begins...
Before you start to read, I must apologise that this doesn't have any photos. I am very poor at taking photos when Phil isn't around. I will try to dig some relevant ones out and add them soon!
I feel like it's been a quiet week but one in which we have made significant progress in getting ourselves set up in Mumbai. We have confirmed our apartment, purchased a car and found a driver, for a two week trial at least, starting this Tuesday. Although we've had no problem getting around in autoricksaws and "cool cabs", having the car will give us a much greater degree of security and freedom to explore the city. We also knew that the apartment and car would be the two big ticket items to sort out upon our arrival in Bombay, so it is relief to have these in place.
Further, I have successfully registered at the FRRO (Foreigners Regional Registration Office) and am now an offical resident, which allows me to do all sorts of exciting things like get a bank account and mobile phone, both of which are now in progress. I had heard horror stories about this taking four hours in a sweltering office but it was actually remarkably quick for me (I was out in an hour), though I have a sneaking suspicion that this had been influenced in advance by the company helping me with this. This could have been beginners luck, but was good nonetheless.
The FRRO office itself is South Mumbai and feels like somewhere from another age. Whilst sitting in the queue, I caught a glimpse into a side office which seemed to be stacked with the same folders as I was made to purchase (30 rupees, a side line money maker for the office staff) to present my papers, and hence I assume is the storage facility for foreign residents of India. Although how you would go about finding papers in that room, I really don't know. The registration process required an unbelievable volume of signatures and information, but this seemed to be enough, and I was duly issued with my residency certificate.
Moving on to the apartment, we now know that agreeing the lease on an apartment in Bombay is a quite extraordinary experience. EVERY aspect of the lease is painfully negotiated until the two parties can agree and negotiation tactics are critical. Bombay is not a cheap city so getting this right makes a big difference.
Thankfully, we had our agent to help and I do not know how anyone from outside India could manage all this effectively on their own. On Wednesday, I was picked up from work to meet the owner after initial discussions had taken place in my absence. The current price on the table from the owner was too high for us, but our agent was confident that we could get this down. Apparently the apartment had been previously let to expats from my company which gave the owner confidence and he was keen to have us as tenants if the price was right.
On the journey to meet the owner, at his (large and palatial) furniture shop, I was given my instructions by our agent. Do not say anything. At all. When he tries to make you increase your current offer, just stay silent or insist that our current offer is the most you can possibly stretch to, and the agent will do the rest. As a newly arrived white expat, being silent is the most useful contribution I would be able to make.
This strategy set out, we met in the office of the furniture shop with five people squished in a small room. Me, the owner, his broker, my agent, his broker......We are quickly learning that India functions with more people rather than fewer! I found the whole experience both fascinating and bizarre. There was a lot of animated discussion, some which I felt got fairly heated, but I think this is par for the course. There were also long periods where people were looking at me to say something (including my agent!) and I just stayed quiet as instructed, which was all quite strange. Everyone seemed pretty amiable at the end of it but, as far as I could see, we were not going to get close enough together to agree a deal. I was disappointed but, we had tried, and I was prepared to look elsewhere. I was rather surprised when our agent told me in the car that it had gone well and that he expected to receive a lower offer the next day. I was skeptical, but he was right.
Anyway, we have agreed a lease (admittedly to be signed tomorrow, so no chickens are being counted yet) on a 7th floor apartment in the heart of Bandra and very close to my work. It is bigger than we intended (has four bedrooms and bathrooms) which feels excessive, but it gave us the space, light, location and everything else that we wanted. Now that we have this, we would like lots of visitors, please, and soon. Family and friends, please start booking in!
We have been exploring the area around the apartment this weekend and there are more cafes, restaurants and shops than we could possibly need. We'll be moving into the apartment in two weeks' time (before our shipment arrives, but there is some furniture in place) and looking forward to having our own home again.
We have found a local supermarket packed with imported goods, some at quite astonishing prices (£20 for a bottle of Yellow Tail Merlot anyone?, £6 for a packet of dried pasta?), but it's good to know it's there and there is a wide range of goods available. If we have a sudden craving for chocolate digestive biscuits in the future then we will know where to go. The concept of a supermarket is rare in India, the vast majority of food is bought through small individual vendors, so I expect that we will be doing both whilst we are here.
Otherwise, I have simply being experiencing the life of a lone traveler in a hotel over the past week. Many staff now seem to know who I am which has its upsides (continuing complimentary desserts, popcorn and drinks with DVDs, friendly chats etc.) and its downsides. I followed Philip's path of ill health earlier this week, albeit mildly, and ordered the required medicine through the hotel doctor. In the morning, the housekeeper, several waiters, lift man and door man all asked me if I was feeling better. How did they all know?!?! Only a little bit embarrassing, if well intended. I'm much better now, and expect that we'll get used to Indian germs soon. We've been told that you are much more likely to get ill in the monsoon so it should be a lot easier once the rains subside.
I enjoyed the superb evening of tennis on Friday, though fell asleep halfway through the Murray match, though this was close to 1am, so I can be excused. I am very much looking forward to what should be an excellent final this evening.
That's all for now. Off to get some dinner before the match begins...
Sounds like you acted your part well in the apartment negotiations! Hope you got to see the Murray final - did his win even get reported in the media in India?
ReplyDeleteI did indeed see the final - the result was in the Indian papers though none of the Indians I spoke to seemed aware / bothered about the result! Awesome performance. The Ashes, however, is another matter entirely...
ReplyDelete